#238. Ensign Ewart, 521 Lawnmarket, Edinburgh

Back in Edinburgh! The closest pub to the castle, and right on the Royal Mile, this charming, dimly-lit pub is adorned with horse brass on the low-hanging exposed wooden ceiling beams.

There were four cask ales on tap. I ordered a Black Sheep Best Bitter, which certainly was bitter. In fact, it tasted rancid. I'm not sure if it was, or if it was just me, but I returned it after a few sips and bought a Flying Scotsman. The bartender must have had trouble with my accent, for she simply nodded and gave me the access code to the locked toilet.